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Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Wave Refraction (Figure 7-8a) What causes tsunamis and breakers to "break" as they approach the shore? Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom WebBreaking Waves. Waves Entering Shallow Water - Destructive - Persistent onshore winds. They occur when water masses slip over one another. A tombolo b berm c spit d rip current e baymouth bar Wave height/wave length. The crests build up and the troughs build down. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. when the rate of discharge exceeds that of recharge. It is due to: Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. A jetty may have bad consequences for beach nourishment. Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. depending on the slope of the bottom Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. The vertical distance from the trough to the crest and is determined by wave energy is called the what? - Constructive - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. - Speed decreases Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. C. Natural evaporite deposits Constructive wave interference occurs when several wave crests or troughs coincide. Click here for ANIMATION Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Other Types of Progressive Waves B. sand grains and their friction causes rising - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level.